Who needs third gear anyway???

After a comfortable week in Olgii (it was a nice change to be in the one spot for some time) we were itching to get back on the road and explore this expansive land. After several visits to the supermarket to load ourselves with supplies we were off with the plan to head north and then east past spectacular mountains and lakes. Initially the roads were simple enough to follow and we were basking in open spaces and gravel roads, feeling like we were the only human beings alive. Soon, the obvious roads disappeared into several smaller ones and we would just choose the one that was heading in the general direction we wanted to go, stopping every now and again to take pictures of dead animal skulls and ask friendly local herders for directions who would in turn point and motion for us to carry on. As the light was starting to fade we found ourselves near a small town (if you would count three buildings and several gers as a town). We figured we would get a little bit further away before setting up camp, so we stopped on the outside of town to consult our map as well as the landscape ahead, noticing a clear road in the distance. At this point some locals wandered over and checked out the map as well. Pointing ahead, they indicated that we were to carry straight on. OK, straight ahead it was. I’m not sure whether these were the first unkind Mongolians we had encountered or they just weren’t very intelligent, but in a matter of seconds we found ourselves deep in a swamp (probably the only damn swamp in the whole of Mongolia). Hayden’s master four wheel driving skills came quickly into play, he worked Maggie hard to get us all out of trouble, saving us from spending the evening up to our armpits in swamp water. Free of the the swamp and heart rates slightly more elevated than desired we headed straight on, already picking out a sunny camping spot. In doing a few small laps around the area to secure that perfect location we heard the most horrible crunching sound coming from the depths of Maggie. Giving each other worrying glances, we drove a little more and sure enough on a gear change there was the sound again. Our hearts sank. Hayden set about draining the gearbox and our fears were confirmed when chunks of metal appeared. In pretty much the middle of nowhere the realisation slowly dawned on us that we had f*#@ed the gearbox. The cold was setting in so we set up the tent and car in preparation for the evening, lit a fire and ate dinner in relative silence. Despite our down turned luck it was hard not to appreciate the stillness in the cool air and the peacefulness of the night. The stars shone so fiercely it was hypnotic and we were on the lookout for shooting stars so we could make one very unanimous wish!
The morning came, cold and bright, and we went about our usual morning coffee ritual without any mention of the car. Ignoring our problems we climbed to the very top of the rocky mountain we had camped beside and took in the incredible view (even with the binoculars we could hardly make out the stupid swamp!)- video link is below (just after the petrol tank picture). The unclouded blue sky and the vivid red colour of the land was beginning to lift our spirits and we made the plan to carry on to the next decent sized town, Ulaangom, still around 150km away, as carefully as we can using only first, second and fourth gear. Once there, we could then assess the real damage and make another plan.
With deep breaths we left and drove along the harsh gravel roads, stopping every now and again to enquire with the locals if we were on the right track, literally. Now, I gotta say, going over mountain passes without using third gear is rather stressful, not to mention the effect that it has on the engine. We had to stop a couple of times in the whistling wind and freezing temperatures just to let Maggie cool down. We made it safely down and stopped to rest in the sunshine for lunch, no need to pull off the ‘road’ as there are plenty of other tracks for people to choose from around us. With Ureg Nur lake in the distance and the sun radiating its heat, we ate and let Maggie recover. Making the most of the warmth Hayden lifted the bonnet to check things over. No surprises here, but after a few minutes a sheep herder arrived on his motorbike, lasoo looped over the front, to check if we needed any help. In a few more minutes, two more herders joined us and soon enough a couple of lorry drivers had also stopped. They curiously inspected the car and it passed the ‘Mongolian curiosity test’ once again. They sent us off into the hills in the direction of Ulaangom and carried on with their day. Up through the moonlike surroundings we drove, going at a slightly faster than desirable pace in fourth gear. Coming down the mountain we could see Uvs Lake in the distance and its colossal size could make you believe you were by the sea if you did not know any better. We saw trees for the first time in days, albeit brown and barren ones, and off into the distance we could make out the faint black line of tarmac! Soon enough we were in a hotel carpark with some cows. We had made it, just, I don’t think poor Maggie could have taken us much further. Time for a much needed shower and rest!
The next day we discovered that our hotel had an old garage space that was not really being used, so after some sign language and a phone conversation in English with the owner’s nephew and it was concluded that we would rent the garage (at the huge cost of £1.50 per day) and do our best to suss out the problem. Hayden cleverly used the winch off the front of the car, hooked it up and over some planks of wood and metal bars found in our garage to pull the gearbox out. After a thorough clean and careful consultation of both Land Rover manuals and the Internet, the gearbox came apart bit by bit and carefully put aside. Once down to the mainbox there were nerves with the removal of each piece and our fears were confirmed – third gear completely ruined. As well as the subsequent gear on the layshaft.
A plan of attack was slowly forming. We would contact the gearbox supplier in the UK and have parts sent. It turns out the quickest (and probably most reliable) way to do this was to have them sent to Ulaanbaatar, the Mongolian capital. Fortunately, Ulaangom has an airport and reasonably priced flights that would allow us to head to Ulaanbaatar to collect them. Of course our luck (or perhaps lack thereof) meant that we had to wait out over the weekend before any action could be taken up with folks in the UK. Our luck turned when we discovered that Manuel (the Swiss guy that we met at the Russian/Mongolian border and spent time with in Olgii) was in town. Knowing that he was behind us I had sent him a text explaining our troubles, he was in the area and came to join us. We spent the weekend perusing the market, bumbling our way through food menus, accessorising Manuel’s motorbike and even participating in the odd bit of karaoke.
Come Monday morning we bid farewell to Manuel for the second time and got back to work on our plan to get Maggie moving again. With some serious consultation of the parts catalogue and several emails and phone calls to City Gearboxes in Coventry, as well as pestering DHL so frequently that they decided to give us a discount, a few days later our parts departed the UK the same time we departed Ulaangom.
The lovely hotel staff kindly offered for us to leave Maggie locked away free of charge until we get back, but for now we are off to explore the big smoke!